Gather these before you shut the water off
Parts and tools for a standard toilet swap
- New toilet. Match the rough-in, which is the distance from the finished wall to the center of the floor drain. Twelve inches is the most common, but measure yours.
- New wax ring or wax-free seal. Never reuse the old one. A used ring will not seal again.
- Closet bolts and a supply line. Buy new. Old bolts are often corroded, and an old supply line is a leak waiting to happen.
- Adjustable wrench, putty knife, bucket, sponge. The knife scrapes the old wax. The sponge and a small cup empty the last of the water.
- Rags, gloves, and a helper. A toilet bowl can weigh a lot, and porcelain slips when wet. Lift with your legs and with another person.
Lay down a towel or flattened box to protect the floor. Have the new toilet unboxed and checked for chips before you remove the old one, so you are not left with a hole and a damaged replacement.
Removing the old toilet, one step at a time
Shut off and drain
Close the supply valve on the wall by turning it clockwise. Flush to empty the tank, then sponge out what remains in the tank and bowl.
Disconnect the supply line
Unscrew the nut at the bottom of the tank by hand or with a wrench. Keep a towel under it, because a little water will come out.
Remove the bolt caps and nuts
Pop the caps off the base. Loosen the nuts on both sides. If they spin, hold the bolt with pliers. If they are rusted solid, a hacksaw blade slipped under the nut will cut them.
Rock and lift
Gently rock the bowl to break the wax seal, then lift straight up and set it on towels. Carry it out upright if you can, because waste water still sits in the trap.
Plug the opening
Stuff a rag into the drain flange right away. It blocks sewer gas and keeps tools and wax from falling into the pipe.
Scrape the flange clean
Remove the old wax with a putty knife. Wipe the surface so the new ring sits on clean metal or plastic.
The flange check that decides everything
With the toilet out, look at the flange, the ring that connects the toilet to the drain and holds the bolts. It should be solid, level with or slightly above the finished floor, and firmly fastened. A cracked, bent, or loose flange will let the new toilet rock and leak no matter how well you tighten the bolts.
North Chicago has a mixed housing stock. The Census puts the median home at 1973, but 32.3 percent of homes were built before 1960. In older homes a cast iron drain, a repaired flange, or a subfloor stained by years of slow leaks is common. If you see dark, spongy wood or crumbling edges, do not set the new toilet on top of it.
| What you find | What it usually means | Your move |
|---|---|---|
| Flange slightly low | The floor was raised, perhaps with new tile | A thicker wax ring or a spacer made for the job |
| Cracked plastic or rusted metal | The flange has failed | Stop and have it repaired or replaced |
| Soft, dark, or crumbling floor | Slow leak has damaged the subfloor | Stop and call a plumber, then a floor repair |
| Bolts spin freely | The flange is loose on the floor | Secure the flange before setting |
| Strong sewer smell with the rag out | The drain or vent may have another problem | Replug the opening and call us |
If the flange or the floor needs work, that is a repair and not an install problem. Our toilet repair team can fix the flange and make the floor ready for the new fixture.
Setting the new toilet
Fit the wax ring and bolts
Set new closet bolts in the flange slots. Place the wax ring on the flange or on the horn of the toilet, but not both.
Lower the bowl straight down
Line the bolt holes up and lower the toilet in one motion. Do not slide it after it touches the wax. Press down with your body weight to seat it.
Tighten in small turns
Alternate between the two nuts. Stop when the toilet no longer rocks. Cranking too hard cracks the porcelain.
Attach the tank if it is separate
Follow the maker's order for bolts and rubber washers. Snug them evenly, because the tank is also china.
Connect the supply, turn on the water, and test
Open the valve slowly. Let the tank fill, flush several times, and check every joint with dry tissue for the first sign of a drip.
Trim the bolts, snap on the caps, and run a thin bead of caulk around the base if you like. A rocking toilet after tightening points to an uneven floor, which a plumber can fix with shims.
When to hand the job to a plumber
Call us if the flange is damaged, if the floor is soft, if the shutoff valve will not close, or if the toilet will not seat flat. Call us as well if you are moving the toilet to a new spot, because that changes the drain and the vent and may require a permit. For new fixture work, our plumbing installation crew handles the piping and the rough-in.
Overflowing right now? Close the supply valve behind the toilet, lift the tank lid, and push the flapper down to stop the flow. Then call. We are open 24/7.
Waukegan and Libertyville: the local rules to ask about
What Waukegan and Libertyville publish about plumbing work
Waukegan's plumbing page says that permits are required for all plumbing revisions and for replacing hot water heaters, and that contractors must be registered with the city. The page does not say whether a like-for-like toilet swap counts, so phone the building department before you start, especially if you plan to move the fixture or hire a plumber.
Libertyville's municipal code adopts the Illinois Plumbing Code, and Section 6-191 sets a local WaterSense requirement for new fixtures. Check the label on any toilet you buy for a Libertyville address. The village also requires a Plumbing Verification Letter for owner-performed residential plumbing, so a do-it-yourself install there is not paperwork-free. The Building Division can explain what applies to your project.
For service in Waukegan, our Waukegan plumber page has more on the city. Libertyville homeowners can read about our Libertyville service area, a short drive from our dispatch address on Skokie Highway.
Rather not lift a toilet yourself? Call and we will arrange a same-day appointment when available.
Call (847) 281-8626Toilet swap questions people ask
Plan on about two hours if everything goes smoothly, including the cleanup. Add time for a stuck bolt, a bad flange, or a trip to the store. A plumber usually finishes faster because the parts and tools are on the truck.
No. Once the toilet is lifted, the wax is compressed and shaped to the old bowl. A new ring costs little and prevents a leak that can ruin a floor.
The floor is probably uneven or the flange sits too low. Tightening harder will not fix it and can crack the porcelain. A thin plastic shim under the base or a flange spacer usually does the job, and a plumber can set it right.
The village code lists a local WaterSense requirement for new fixtures in Section 6-191. Check the box for the label, and ask the Building Division how it applies to a replacement. We can also confirm it before we install.
Yes. A toilet that overflows or leaks at the base needs attention fast, so we are open 24/7. Close the supply valve behind the toilet first, then call.
Need a hand with the heavy part?
Call us for a toilet repair or a new install. We will explain the work and give a clear price before we start.
Call (847) 281-8626